Southwest North Dakota

Matt and I took a much needed rest day in Hettinger, N.D. The following morning we got on the road at sunrise! We were planning on setting personal records today with our promised 20 to 50 m.p.h. tailwinds and gusts!

Zoom Zoom! Into the brisk wind we go!

The sun felt wonderful on our backs as we rode West. It was illuminating our path as the wind propelled us forward. Town after town we pedaled West with the wind at our backs propelling us toward Montana.

Every photo captured allowed us a small (less than 5 minute) break off our saddles. To say we were determined to break our personal records would be an understatement.

We passed over the Little Missouri River into Marmarth. As we rolled through this near desolate town, we were shocked to see dirt roads connecting onto the Main street. Upon exiting the town, we stopped to snap a pic of Van Horns Antique Auto Museum mural.

Matt and I were excited to be nearing Montana! Neither of us had ridden our bikes in Montana. This is Matt’s first time in Montana and my third.

Matt was beaming like the sun as he rolled into Montana.

Our first Montana town was the town of Baker. Matt knew there was a coffee shop there so we pedaled into town with much anticipation of a great cup of coffee and a short break.

Our barista’s confirmed what another cyclist had previously told us. There was a possible stealth camp opportunity at the parking area 40 miles East of Miles City. It was 2:30pm. We had already cycled 84 miles and decided to go for it.

As we left Baker, Montana two mule deer quickly crossed the road in front of me. Rosie’s eyes got big as the mule deer bounded across the road. I explained to Rosie that mule deer do not run, they bound. Think of the word boingy boingy and you can picture mule deer in motion. She laughed as we rode further. I could here her say boingy boingy over and over as she looked for more mule deer in the fields. We reached the small town of Plevna after 13 miles. Only 27 miles to go.

As we neared our last 10 miles the wind shifted from a tailwind to a vicious cross/headwind. The clouds became dark and we stopped to reassess our destination. Matt agreed to actively look for a stealth site as we approached the “parking area”. Google showed minimal evidence that our destination existed. Everytime we checked the remaining miles to go, it appeared to gotten further away. By the time we reached 6 miles to go we actually had 9 miles to go.

Quite honestly, between a combination of having been on the verge of bonking, my least favorite types of weather while riding (cold headwinds, rain and cars spraying us with puddles) and an uphill every single last 9 miles, my positive, we can do it, good attitude crashed and burned on the side of Highway 12. Choice words and phrases came out of my mouth as the rain and wind blew all over me like shatstorm. There was absolutely no stealth campsite to be found those last 9 miles.

We arrived into the parking area wet, beat and thankful to be done for the day. Matt pulled out the tent and we set it up in the rain. Then he ordered me and my bad attitude to the pit toilet to dry off and change into my pajamas. I grabbed my pannier and stomped off to the pit toilet.

Surprisingly, the pit toilet did not stank of urine and poop. I was out of the rain and wind and managed to peel off my clothes, dry off and hang my wet clothes up to dry when Matt came into check on me. I was trying to put my pj’s on without having them touch floor. He suggested I sit down on the toilet seat lid. Still distraught and hangry, I replied “I am not putting my wet bare ass on the toilet seat!” He instead helped steady myself so I could get my legs into my pants. He made sure I wasn’t crying. I was not, but good Lord I needed to eat.

I set off for the tent and made up the beds. It was freezing cold and he was patiently and productively waiting for me to be done so he could change out of his wet clothes and get in the tent. He did everything from securing the bikes to bringing the panniers to the vestibule to getting the ingredients needed for dinner to the tent. After I finished blowing up our air mattresses and putting the sheet on, he climbed in the tent. It was still raining and blowing wind and the dry interior of the tent was much needed. Now for dinner!

Matt stopped shivering in the time it took me to make Ramen with eggs. Not exactly a calorie replacement well rounded meal, but it was hot and delicious. Once I had food in me and my body temperature warmed up so did my attitude. We had ridden 126 miles and although I wished the last 10 miles were like the first 116, it was not.

Good Lord please refine me and get me fed before I go beyond hangry. Can anyone relate?

Morning came and the sunrise was accompanied by a glorious rainbow. Matt captured this on his camera. For those of who don’t know, Matt is part if not all polar bear. I am not. Lol I stayed snuggled in the tent. I did however make us coffee. It was still too brisk, wet and windy for me that early in the morning. Hence why we usually get a later than desired start most mornings. I need to feel the sun on my skin before I am ready to get rolling.

Matt and I packed up and he gathered up our wet clothes. We agreed to get a hotel in Miles City at the end our ride that day. We had a day of headwinds and planned on persevering to our destination. As we mounted our bikes our muscles screamed out in pain…Again??? We got back onto the rode and made it into Miles City after a few breaks and acts of kindness. Once we checked into our hotel, we set off to find lunch and dinner. Once we replenished our bodies with fuel we headed back to the hotel. I was able to do laundry and Matt got caught up on his blog. We were both glad to be resting out of the wind.

The next day we got a mid morning start. Forecast was headwinds up to 15 m.p.h. We decided to take I 94 to Forsyth. After 10 miles of fighting the wind we took a break and reassessed our destination. Suggestions that came up were go back to Miles City and start again the next day or press onto fallback game plan option 1, the rest area; or punt and find a stealth camp out of the wind.

We chose to actively look for a stealth campsite. We plodded along into the wind and came upon two older ladies on the other side of the interstate trying to change their flat tire. Matt and I headed over and he proceeded to change their tire. Mind you, they had just bought the used car in Billings that day and were headed home to Wisconsin. We all did our best to look for the missing jack handle. Matt used the Leatherman to jack up the car most of the way, when we finally located the missing part under the drivers seat. He finished the job and got the ladies on their way to Miles City to purchase new tires before setting off onto their multi state road trip.

Matt and I felt rejuvenated and pressed on to the rest area, just a short 9 miles ahead. Windswept and still a little sore we arrived into the rest area and took residence up in one of the four shelters overlooking the Yellowstone River. What a view!

As we rested out of the wind, Matt noticed his rear tire was flat. What a blessing he found it then instead tomorrow morning. We decided to make dinner before changing the tire.

After dinner Matt hung our hammocks and I crawled up in mine to rest my tired muscles. Matt then fixed his tire, washed up and got in his hammock. The sunset was off in the distance as my eyes closed for the night.

During the night, trucks and cars came and went. Passing trains traveled down their tracks. A chill set in the air as the day broke through the dark sky. Matt was up and got warmer clothes on. He had set up his camera to capture the sunrise. When I awoke I laid in my hammock snuggled up with Rosie as we watched the sun come up. Matt made us coffee and we sipped it slowly as the sun broke over the plateau.

The sun was up and so was I. Matt was already 90% packed up and I got myself ready to go and we were on the road by 830am.

We stopped for a quick breakfast along the rode. A mile or so later, I had a flat tire. Matt circled back and helped me change it. Soon we were back on the road.

We reached Forsyth, Montana just before noon and found the Speedway Diner for lunch. We reviewed our remaining miles to Spokane and the days left to get there as we ate lunch. We have 660 miles left to go according to Google, with an elevation gain of 30,425 feet and 16 days to do it in. We would need to do a minimum of 42 miles a day to reach Spokane in time for my flight. We decided to get a hotel that served a good breakfast. We set off for the hotel when I realized I had another flat tire. We pumped it up and limped quickly to the hotel. After naps Matt left to get groceries. I am wrapping up my update then cooking dinner/lunch in the hotel room from our pantry panniers. Lessen the load and fuel our ride in the coming days. Win. Win.

Hope y’all had a great weekend. For my Florida and SoWeGa friends and family, be safe and ready as Hurricane Ian approaches. You are in my prayers. 🙏🙏🙏

Keep us in your prayers for tailwinds, favorable weather, safety and energy to climb these mountains!

Be blessed 🤗